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MMe OffGrid

Printable handbook

Your backup when the phone dies. Choose “Save as PDF” or print and keep it with your kit.

Me Off Grid Handbook

Educational only — not a substitute for professional training, medical care or official evacuation orders. Emergency: call 911.

Water & Purification

Disinfecting Water by Boiling (Field-Tested)

Goal: Make biologically unsafe water safe to drink.

Materials: Metal pot or kettle; Heat source; Clean cloth; Clean storage container

Substitutes: Metal can (label and liner removed); Coffee filter or bandana for clarifying; Camp stove instead of fire

  1. Let cloudy water settle, then pour the clearer top layer through a clean cloth.
  2. Bring the water to a rolling boil — big bubbles that don't stop when stirred.
  3. Keep boiling for 1 minute (3 minutes above 6,500 ft / 2,000 m).
  4. Let it cool naturally with a lid on to avoid recontamination.
  5. Store in a clean, covered container. Pour between containers to improve flat taste.

Dangers: Boiling does NOT remove chemicals, fuel, heavy metals or salt. Burn and scald risk — keep children clear. Never boil indoors with a fuel stove without ventilation (carbon monoxide).

It worked if: A sustained rolling boil was reached and held for the full time; water was cooled and stored covered.

Disinfecting Water with Household Bleach (Field-Tested)

Goal: Disinfect clear water using chemicals available in most homes.

Materials: Unscented liquid chlorine bleach (6–8.25% sodium hypochlorite); Eyedropper; Clean container

Substitutes: Purpose-made chlorine dioxide tablets; Iodine tablets (not for pregnancy or thyroid conditions)

  1. Check the label: unscented, no added cleaners, 6% or 8.25% sodium hypochlorite.
  2. Filter or settle cloudy water first — chlorine works poorly in murky water.
  3. Add 8 drops (6%) or 6 drops (8.25%) per gallon of clear water. Double for cloudy or very cold water.
  4. Stir and wait at least 30 minutes.
  5. Smell it: a faint chlorine odor means it worked. If not, repeat the dose and wait another 15 minutes.

Dangers: Never use scented, splash-less or color-safe bleach. Does not reliably kill Cryptosporidium. Does not remove chemical contamination.

It worked if: A faint chlorine smell remains after 30 minutes.

SODIS: Solar Water Disinfection (Field-Tested)

Goal: Disinfect small batches of clear water with sunlight only.

Materials: Clear PET plastic bottles (2 L or smaller); Strong sunlight; Dark or reflective surface

Substitutes: Corrugated metal roof as a reflective surface; Clear glass is less effective — it blocks more UV

  1. Use only clear, unscratched PET bottles without labels.
  2. Fill with clear water (you should read newsprint through the bottle).
  3. Lay bottles flat in full sun on a reflective or dark surface.
  4. Expose 6 hours in full sun, or 2 consecutive days if cloudy.
  5. Drink directly from the bottle to avoid recontamination.

Dangers: Ineffective in cloudy water or on rainy days. Does nothing against chemicals. Not a substitute for boiling when available.

It worked if: Clear water received the full exposure time in direct sun.

The Solar Still (Conditional)

Goal: Collect small amounts of distilled water from soil or plants.

Materials: Clear plastic sheet (1.5×1.5 m); Container; Small stone; Digging tool

Substitutes: Clear bag tied over leafy branch (transpiration bag) — usually better yield; Rocks to weigh edges

  1. Dig a hole ~1 m wide and 60 cm deep in damp, sunny ground — only in cool morning hours.
  2. Place the container in the center; add green, non-poisonous vegetation around it.
  3. Cover with plastic, seal edges with soil.
  4. Place a small stone in the middle so the plastic dips over the container.
  5. Leave 24 hours. Expect roughly a cup or less.

Dangers: Digging in heat causes more sweat loss than the still returns. Don't add toxic plants or contaminated water.

It worked if: Clear droplets collect in the container.

Fire Making

Lighting Fire with a Ferro Rod (Field-Tested)

Goal: Ignite a tinder bundle without matches or a lighter.

Materials: Ferrocerium rod; Striker or spine of a knife; Fine dry tinder; Kindling and fuel wood

Substitutes: Cotton ball with petroleum jelly; Birch bark or fatwood shavings; Dryer lint

  1. Gather tinder, pencil-thin kindling and wrist-thick fuel BEFORE striking.
  2. Fluff tinder into a bird's-nest bundle on a dry platform.
  3. Place the rod tip in the tinder. Hold the striker still and pull the rod back firmly.
  4. When tinder catches, gently blow at the base and add kindling in a teepee.
  5. Add larger fuel gradually once kindling burns steadily.

Dangers: Clear a 3 m area of flammables; keep water nearby. Fully drown, stir and feel ashes before leaving.

It worked if: Tinder ignites within a few strikes and kindling sustains a flame.

The Bow Drill (Conditional)

Goal: Create an ember using only wood and cordage.

Materials: Dry softwood spindle & hearth board (cedar, willow, basswood); Bow with cord; Bearing block; Tinder bundle

Substitutes: Shoelace or paracord for bow string; Stone with a dimple or hard wood for bearing block; Hand drill (harder) if no cordage

  1. Carve a straight spindle ~20 cm long, thumb-thick, pointed top, rounded bottom.
  2. Burn in a socket on the hearth, then cut a V-notch to its center.
  3. Place a leaf under the notch to catch dust.
  4. Wrap the spindle once in the bow string, press down with the bearing block, saw with long steady strokes.
  5. When smoke continues on its own, gently transfer the ember to tinder and blow to flame.

Dangers: Damp wood almost never works. Exhausting — attempt only when not hypothermic or dehydrated.

It worked if: Dust pile in the notch keeps smoking after you stop drilling.

Water-Filled Bottle Lens (Conditional)

Goal: Concentrate sunlight to ignite tinder.

Materials: Clear round bottle or bag filled with water; Bright midday sun; Char cloth or very dark tinder

Substitutes: Magnifying glass (far more reliable); Eyeglasses for farsightedness

  1. Fill a round clear bottle completely to remove air bubbles.
  2. Hold it so sunlight passes through the curved section.
  3. Move it until you find the smallest bright spot on dark tinder.
  4. Hold perfectly still. Expect it may never get hot enough.

Dangers: Do not rely on this method — carry two proven ignition sources.

It worked if: Tinder smokes and glows at the focal point.

Shelter Building

A-Frame Tarp Shelter (Field-Tested)

Goal: Get out of rain and wind quickly.

Materials: Tarp (3×3 m); 10 m cordage; 4–6 stakes; Ground insulation

Substitutes: Emergency blanket or heavy trash bags; Sharpened sticks for stakes; Rocks on corners; Leaves or pine boughs for insulation

  1. Pick a site away from dead branches (widowmakers), flood paths and hollows.
  2. Tie a taut ridgeline between two trees at waist-to-chest height.
  3. Drape the tarp over the line with the back to the wind.
  4. Stake out corners tight and low so rain sheds.
  5. Lay 10+ cm of dry insulation underneath — the ground steals more heat than the air.

Dangers: Never pitch under dead limbs or in dry creek beds. No open fire inside or under the tarp.

It worked if: You stay dry in rain and feel no wind lying inside.

Electricity & Lighting

Start Here: Your Blackout Power Budget (Field-Tested)

Goal: Calculate how many watt-hours per day your essential devices need so you can pick the right way to make or store electricity.

Materials: Paper and pencil (or phone calculator); Device labels / chargers (they list watts or volts × amps); Optional: plug-in watt meter (Kill-A-Watt style); List of must-have devices

Substitutes: Manufacturer specs online instead of labels; Rule of thumb: phone 10–15 Wh/charge, LED bulb 5–10 W, CPAP 30–60 W, fridge 100–200 W running; USB inline meter for small devices

  1. Write down every device you truly need in an outage: phones, a radio, LED lights, medical devices (CPAP, oxygen concentrator), fridge, fans, internet router.
  2. Find each device's power in watts (W) on its label or charger. If it lists volts and amps, multiply them: 5 V × 2 A = 10 W.
  3. Estimate how many hours per day each device runs. A phone charge is about 2 hours at 5–10 W; LED lights maybe 5 hours.
  4. Multiply watts × hours for each device to get watt-hours (Wh) per day. Example: 8 W LED × 5 h = 40 Wh.
  5. Add them up. A typical 'phones, radio, lights, router' kit is 100–200 Wh/day. A refrigerator adds roughly 1,000–2,000 Wh/day.
  6. Add 25% for losses (inverters, cold batteries, wiring). 160 Wh becomes 200 Wh.
  7. Note the largest single wattage — this is your 'peak'. Your inverter or power station must handle it; fridges and pumps briefly surge 2–3× when starting.
  8. Compare to methods in this discipline: a hand crank gives ~5–20 W while you crank; a 100 W solar panel gives ~300–500 Wh on a sunny day; a car alternator can safely supply ~100–300 W through an inverter.
  9. Cut the list until it fits what you can realistically generate and store. Swap high-watt items for low-watt ones (LED instead of incandescent, 12 V fan instead of box fan).
  10. Write the final budget on your family plan and tape it near your battery or power station.

Dangers: Never guess medical-device needs — check the manual or ask the supplier; register with your utility's medical priority list. Heaters, hair dryers, microwaves and kettles need 1,000–1,800 W and will drain any small system in minutes. Don't overload extension cords; check their amp rating.

It worked if: You have a written daily Wh total and a peak wattage, and you know which methods below can meet it.

Solar Panel + Charge Controller + Battery System (Field-Tested)

Goal: Build a safe 12-volt solar system that produces roughly 300–500 Wh on a sunny day from a 100 W panel.

Materials: 100 W 12 V solar panel; PWM or MPPT charge controller (10–20 A); 12 V deep-cycle battery — LiFePO4 50–100 Ah preferred; Inline fuses/breakers (one near battery, sized to wire); 10–12 AWG wire with MC4 connectors; 12 V USB socket and/or 300 W pure-sine inverter; Wrench, wire strippers, crimper, multimeter

Substitutes: All-in-one portable power station with solar input (no wiring); Foldable 'solar blanket' panel; AGM or flooded lead-acid battery (heavier, needs ventilation); Car battery in a pinch (shallow use only — it wears out fast)

  1. Put on safety glasses and remove rings and watches — a shorted battery can weld metal and burn skin.
  2. Place the battery on a non-flammable surface indoors-but-ventilated (or in a battery box). Lead-acid batteries vent hydrogen while charging; keep them away from flames and sparks.
  3. Connect the charge controller to the BATTERY FIRST: red wire through a fuse from controller BAT+ to battery +, black from BAT− to battery −. Most controllers need the battery to know the system voltage.
  4. Check the controller display shows battery voltage (12.0–13.6 V for a healthy 12 V battery).
  5. Cover the solar panel with a blanket or face it down so it produces no power while you wire it.
  6. Connect the panel's MC4 leads to the controller PV+ and PV− terminals. Double-check polarity with a multimeter before connecting.
  7. Uncover the panel and aim it at the sun: face true south (northern hemisphere), tilt roughly equal to your latitude, no shading on any cell — even a shaded corner can cut output by half.
  8. Confirm the controller shows charging (icon or amps flowing). At midday a 100 W panel typically shows 4–6 A.
  9. Connect loads to the controller LOAD terminals or a fused 12 V block: USB sockets, 12 V LED strips, 12 V fan.
  10. For household devices, connect a pure-sine inverter directly to the battery with short, thick cables and its own fuse. Keep inverter loads under 80% of its rating.
  11. Re-aim the panel 2–3 times a day toward the sun for 20–30% more energy.
  12. Each evening, check battery voltage. Stop using it around 12.0 V (lead-acid, ~50%) or 12.8 V resting / BMS cutoff (LiFePO4).

Dangers: Battery short circuits can cause fire or explosion — always fuse the positive wire within 18 in (45 cm) of the battery. Lead-acid batteries contain sulfuric acid and release hydrogen; wear eye protection and gloves and ventilate. Never connect a panel directly to a battery without a controller. Never wire into home circuits without a transfer switch and licensed electrician — backfeed can kill line workers.

It worked if: The controller shows charging current in sun, and the battery runs your lights and charges phones overnight without dropping below the safe voltage.

Using a Portable Power Station ("Solar Generator") (Field-Tested)

Goal: Keep phones, lights, a router, a fan or a CPAP running through an outage with zero exhaust or wiring.

Materials: Portable power station (300–2,000 Wh; LiFePO4 lasts longest); Wall charger; Car charging cable; Optional compatible solar panel; Power budget from the Start Here lesson

Substitutes: Large USB power banks (20,000 mAh ≈ 74 Wh) for phones only; UPS battery backup for a router (short runtime); 12 V battery + inverter (DIY)

  1. Before storm season, charge it to 100% from the wall and check that every outlet type works.
  2. Store it at 60–80% charge in a cool, dry place and top it up every 3 months; set a phone reminder.
  3. When a storm is forecast, charge to 100% and charge all phones and power banks too.
  4. In the outage, turn on only the outputs you need — AC inverters waste 10–30 W just being switched on. Use USB and 12 V outputs where possible.
  5. Plug in essentials first (medical, communication, lighting). Watch the 'watts out' display; the hours-remaining estimate updates live.
  6. For CPAP, use the 12 V DC adapter and turn off the humidifier/heated hose — this can double or triple runtime.
  7. Recharge in daylight from a solar panel: place panel outside in full sun, run cable inside under a door, and keep the station indoors.
  8. Or recharge from a running car (outdoors, never in a garage) via the 12 V socket — slow, about 100 W.
  9. Never cover vents; keep it off carpet and away from water.
  10. When grid power returns, recharge it to full immediately so it's ready next time.

Dangers: Don't run heaters, kettles or microwaves unless the unit is rated for them — they drain it in minutes. Lithium fires are rare but serious: don't use a swollen, dropped-and-damaged, or wet unit. Solar 'generator' marketing exaggerates; check real Wh capacity.

It worked if: Your essential devices ran for the planned hours, and the station was recharged by solar or car.

Your Car as a Generator (Battery + Inverter) (Conditional)

Goal: Use a vehicle to charge phones, power banks and run small AC devices during a blackout.

Materials: Vehicle with fuel; 12 V USB adapter (cigarette-lighter type); Small inverter: 150 W plug-in, or 300–1,000 W clamped to battery; Heavy extension cord (outdoor-rated); CO alarm for the house

Substitutes: Hybrid/EV with built-in AC outlet or vehicle-to-load adapter (much better); Jump-starter pack with USB; Truck with factory 120 V outlet

  1. Park the vehicle OUTSIDE, in the open, at least 20 ft (6 m) from doors, windows and vents. Never in a garage, even with the door open.
  2. Check the tailpipe isn't blocked by snow, mud or debris.
  3. For small loads (under ~150 W) plug a USB adapter or small inverter into the 12 V socket.
  4. For larger loads, clamp a 300–1,000 W inverter directly to the battery: red to +, black to − or bare chassis. Keep cables short.
  5. Start the engine before drawing more than 50–100 W; a parked engine-off car battery can be flattened in an hour or two and leave you stranded.
  6. Run an outdoor-rated extension cord from the inverter indoors to a power strip. Close the door gently on it without crushing.
  7. Plug in devices one at a time and keep the total under the inverter rating and under ~300 W for typical alternators at idle.
  8. Run the engine in 30–60 minute sessions to charge power banks and a power station, then shut off to save fuel.
  9. Keep a CO alarm running in the house and in the car if anyone sits inside.
  10. Keep at least half a tank of fuel for evacuation.

Dangers: Carbon monoxide kills — engines must run outdoors, never in garages or enclosed spaces. Idling uses about 0.2–0.5 gallons of fuel per hour. Big inverters can blow fuses if plugged into the 12 V socket.

It worked if: Devices charged while the engine ran outdoors, the car still starts, and the CO alarm stayed silent.

Running a Gas Generator Safely (Conditional)

Goal: Run a portable generator to power a fridge, freezer, lights and fans without poisoning anyone or electrocuting line workers.

Materials: Portable or inverter generator; Fresh fuel in approved cans + fuel stabilizer; Heavy-duty outdoor extension cords (12 or 10 gauge); Battery CO alarms on every floor; Hearing and eye protection, work gloves

Substitutes: Dual-fuel generator on propane (stores indefinitely); Inverter generator (quieter, cleaner power for electronics); Transfer switch / interlock installed by electrician for whole-home

  1. Install battery CO alarms on every floor and outside sleeping areas before you ever start the generator.
  2. Place the generator outdoors at least 20 ft (6 m) from the house, exhaust pointing away from doors, windows and vents — never in a garage, carport, porch or shed.
  3. Protect it from rain with a purpose-made generator tent or canopy open on all sides; never run it wet.
  4. Check oil level and add fresh fuel while the engine is OFF and cool — hot engines ignite spilled fuel.
  5. Start it with nothing plugged in. Let it run 1–2 minutes to stabilize.
  6. Run heavy-gauge extension cords inside. Plug in the largest motor load (fridge) first, then smaller loads.
  7. Keep total running watts under 80% of the generator rating.
  8. Never plug the generator into a wall outlet ('backfeeding'). It can energize utility lines and kill line workers or neighbors.
  9. Rotate the fridge and freezer: 2–4 hours on, then switch to other loads, to save fuel.
  10. Refuel only when off and cooled for at least 10–15 minutes. Store fuel away from the house and generator.
  11. If anyone feels headache, dizziness, nausea or confusion, get everyone into fresh air and call 911.

Dangers: Carbon monoxide: odorless, invisible, deadly. Outdoors only, 20 ft away. Electrocution and backfeed: use cords or a professionally installed transfer switch. Burns and fire: hot muffler, spilled fuel. Noise: wear hearing protection when refueling or servicing.

It worked if: Fridge and essentials stayed powered; CO alarms never sounded; no cords run through windows that can't close.

Hand-Crank Generators and Radios (Field-Tested)

Goal: Keep an emergency radio, flashlight and a little phone charge going using only muscle power.

Materials: Hand-crank emergency radio with USB output (NOAA weather band); Short USB cable for your phone; Optional: larger hand-crank generator (10–30 W)

Substitutes: Shake / squeeze flashlights; Bicycle generator (see next lesson); Solar-plus-crank combo radios

  1. Unbox and fully charge the radio's internal battery from the wall or its solar panel before an emergency.
  2. Learn your local NOAA Weather Radio frequency (162.400–162.550 MHz) and save it.
  3. In an outage, use the built-in battery first; crank only to top it up.
  4. Crank steadily at about 2 turns per second — faster doesn't help much and can break the gears.
  5. Crank in 1–2 minute sets, switching hands. One minute typically gives 5–15 minutes of radio or 10 minutes of LED light.
  6. To charge a phone, put the phone in airplane/low-power mode first, connect USB, then crank continuously.
  7. Expect only about 1–2% of phone battery per 5–10 minutes of cranking from small radios. Use it for an emergency call or text, not scrolling.
  8. Use the radio on low volume and turn the light off when not needed.
  9. Store the radio with your kit and check it every 3 months.

Dangers: Overcranking can strip plastic gears. Don't rely on crank power alone for medical devices. Some cheap radios' USB output is too weak for modern phones — test yours in advance.

It worked if: You can receive NOAA weather alerts and send a text using only cranked power.

Bicycle Generator (Conditional)

Goal: Convert a bicycle into a stationary generator that charges a 12 V battery or power station.

Materials: Bicycle and rear-wheel trainer stand; Permanent-magnet DC motor (24 V scooter motor or treadmill motor) or purpose-built bike generator kit; Bracket to press motor shaft against tire (or belt drive); Blocking diode (rated 10 A+) or 12 V charge controller; 12 V battery, fuse, wire; Voltmeter/ammeter

Substitutes: Commercial pedal generator kit (simplest, safest); Hub dynamo + USB converter for phones only (~3 W); Rowing machine or treadmill motor rigs

  1. Mount the bike securely on the trainer stand so it can't tip.
  2. Fix the motor to a sturdy bracket so its shaft (with a rubber roller) presses firmly on the rear tire. Adjust tension so it doesn't slip.
  3. Wear eye protection and keep loose clothing, hair and children's fingers away from the roller.
  4. Wire motor + through a blocking diode (or into a charge controller PV input) to a fuse and battery +; motor − to battery −. The diode stops the battery from spinning the motor backwards.
  5. Add a voltmeter so the rider can see output. Charging needs about 13.5–14.5 V for a 12 V battery.
  6. Pedal steadily. Start slowly and increase speed until voltage passes battery voltage and current flows.
  7. Aim for 20–30 minute sessions at a sustainable effort; a fit adult produces 50–100 W for this long, a beginner 30–50 W.
  8. Expect about 25–50 Wh per 30 minutes — enough to charge 2–4 phones or run an LED light all evening.
  9. Never exceed about 15 V for a 12 V battery; if you can spin past this, use a charge controller.
  10. Drink water and take breaks — this is hard exercise.

Dangers: Pinch and entanglement at the roller. Overvoltage can damage batteries — use a controller. Overexertion in heat — hydrate and rest.

It worked if: The meter shows current into the battery while pedaling, and stored energy runs a light or charges a phone afterward.

Small Wind Turbine (Conditional)

Goal: Decide if wind is worth it at your site and safely install a small 12/24 V turbine to charge a battery bank.

Materials: Small wind turbine (300–600 W, 12/24 V); Wind charge controller with dump load (diverts excess power); Tower or pole 20+ ft with guy wires; Battery bank, fuses, disconnect switch; Cheap anemometer (wind meter)

Substitutes: Solar panel (usually better value for homes); Vertical-axis turbine for turbulent rooftops (less output); Sailboat-style turbine already on RVs/boats

  1. Measure wind for weeks with an anemometer at your planned height. Small turbines need an average of 10+ mph (4.5 m/s) to be worthwhile.
  2. Choose a site at least 20 ft (6 m) higher than anything within 300 ft (90 m) — trees and roofs create turbulence that kills output.
  3. Check local codes, HOA rules and setbacks before buying.
  4. Assemble the tower on the ground. Use a tilt-up design so the turbine can be lowered for storms and service.
  5. Install guy wires and ground anchors per the manufacturer.
  6. Wire turbine to the WIND charge controller with dump load — a turbine must never be disconnected from a load while spinning, or it can over-speed.
  7. Connect controller to the battery bank through a fuse and disconnect switch.
  8. Raise the tower with helpers, never alone, and never in wind.
  9. Test: in moderate wind, the controller should show charging current.
  10. Brake or lower the turbine before hurricanes and severe storms.

Dangers: Falling towers and spinning blades — keep clear during raising and storms. Unloaded turbines can over-speed and fly apart. Never climb towers without fall protection.

It worked if: Wind data justify the turbine, and the controller logs daily charging without over-speed events.

Micro-Hydro From a Stream (Conditional)

Goal: Measure a stream's head and flow, then install a small turbine that makes continuous power.

Materials: Small pelton or turgo micro-hydro turbine; Intake screen and pipe (PVC/HDPE); Measuring bucket and stopwatch; Hose or level for measuring drop; Charge controller with dump load, batteries, wire

Substitutes: Floating 'stream turbine' for low-head rivers; DIY water wheel (low output); Solar if no permission or flow

  1. Confirm you own the water rights or have permission — many places regulate diverting streams.
  2. Measure head (vertical drop) from intake to turbine site using a level, a hose with water, or a GPS altimeter. 10 ft (3 m) is a useful minimum for most kits.
  3. Measure flow: dam briefly with a board, direct all water into a bucket of known size and time how long it takes to fill. Gallons per minute = bucket gallons ÷ seconds × 60.
  4. Estimate power: watts ≈ head (ft) × flow (gpm) ÷ 10. Example: 30 ft × 20 gpm ÷ 10 = 60 W — that's 1,440 Wh every day.
  5. Build a screened intake in a pool so leaves and fish stay out.
  6. Lay pipe downhill to the turbine, avoiding high spots that trap air. Bury or anchor it.
  7. Mount the turbine securely on a base with a tailrace that returns water to the stream.
  8. Wire to a controller with dump load and battery bank, with fuses and a disconnect.
  9. Open the valve slowly to avoid water hammer, and check output.
  10. Clean the intake screen weekly and after storms.

Dangers: Never work in fast or flood water. Pressure pipes can burst — use rated pipe and valves. Protect wildlife and downstream users.

It worked if: Turbine produces steady output day and night, measured by the controller.

Thermoelectric Generator on a Stove or Campfire (Conditional)

Goal: Charge a phone or run an LED from heat you're already using for cooking or warmth.

Materials: Commercial thermoelectric camp stove or stove-top TEG module with USB; Wood stove or campfire (outdoors) / wood stove (indoors with chimney); Heat-resistant gloves; USB cable

Substitutes: DIY Peltier module + heat sink + water pot (experimental); Stove fan (heat-powered, moves air only)

  1. Use only on a properly vented wood stove or outdoors — never with a charcoal grill or camp stove indoors (carbon monoxide).
  2. Place the hot side of the module on the stove surface or follow the camp stove's setup.
  3. Make sure the cold side has its heat sink, fan or water pot — the generator needs a big temperature difference.
  4. Wait until the stove is hot (typically 5–10 minutes). The USB indicator lights when power is available.
  5. Plug in the phone in airplane mode.
  6. Expect about 2–5 W — a phone charge takes 2–4 hours.
  7. Keep cables away from hot surfaces.
  8. Shut down per manufacturer instructions; let it cool before packing.

Dangers: Burns — module and stove are very hot. Overheating destroys modules; follow max temperature ratings. CO: fires and stoves indoors need a chimney and a CO alarm.

It worked if: Phone gains charge while the stove runs safely.

Science Experiment: Lemon, Potato & Saltwater Batteries (Experimental)

Goal: Light a small LED using homemade chemical cells and understand why they can't replace real batteries.

Materials: 4–6 lemons, potatoes or cups of saltwater; Galvanized (zinc-coated) nails or screws; Copper coins (pre-1982 US pennies) or copper wire; Alligator clip leads or wire; Small red LED; Multimeter (optional)

Substitutes: Vinegar instead of lemons; Aluminum foil instead of zinc (weaker); Copper pipe pieces instead of coins

  1. Push one zinc nail and one copper piece into each lemon about 1 in (2–3 cm) apart, not touching.
  2. Measure with a multimeter: each cell gives about 0.8–1 V.
  3. Connect cells in series: copper of cell 1 to zinc of cell 2, and so on. Leave one zinc and one copper free at the ends.
  4. Four cells give roughly 3–4 V — enough voltage to light an LED.
  5. Connect the LED's long leg to the free copper end and short leg to the free zinc end. Dim the room — the glow is faint.
  6. If it doesn't light, flip the LED, check every connection, and add more cells.
  7. Measure current if you have a meter: usually under 1 mA. A phone needs about 1,000–2,000 mA.
  8. Discuss with kids: it would take thousands of lemons to charge a phone.
  9. Throw away the lemons/potatoes afterwards — don't eat them (metal ions).

Dangers: Don't eat the produce after. Never try this with car battery acid or strong chemicals. Supervise young children with nails and sharp wires.

It worked if: The LED glows dimly and you can explain why it isn't practical emergency power.

Safe Lighting Without the Grid (Field-Tested)

Goal: Light your home safely through a multi-day outage with minimal fire risk.

Materials: Headlamps for every person; LED lanterns; Spare AA/AAA batteries (lithium store longest) or rechargeable + charger; Solar garden lights; Fire extinguisher

Substitutes: Phone flashlight (drains battery fast); Oil/kerosene lamp (ventilate, never unattended); Candles in glass jars (last resort); Glow sticks for kids and bathrooms

  1. Give every person a headlamp and keep them at bedsides — they free your hands and are safest.
  2. Put one LED lantern in each main room; aim them at the ceiling or a white wall to spread light.
  3. Make a 'water jug lantern': put a headlamp strapped to a jug of water facing inward — the water scatters light across the room.
  4. Bring solar garden lights outside each morning to charge, then bring them inside at night as free nightlights.
  5. Use lithium AA/AAA batteries for storage (10–20 year shelf life) and rotate alkalines yearly.
  6. If you must use candles: put them in a deep glass jar or holder on a stable, non-flammable surface, at least 12 in (30 cm) from anything that burns.
  7. Never leave flame unattended, never use near curtains, beds, or children and pets, and never use a flame when you smell gas.
  8. Oil or kerosene lamps need ventilation and the correct fuel only. Fill outdoors when cool.
  9. Test smoke and CO alarms and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
  10. Plan: 1 headlamp + 1 lantern per person for 7 days ≈ 8–16 AA batteries.

Dangers: Candles are a leading cause of outage house fires. Fuel lamps produce CO and soot — ventilate. Never use gasoline in lamps.

It worked if: Every room has hands-free or LED light for a full week with no open flames needed.

Myth Check: "Free Energy" Magnet Motors and Earth Batteries (Myth/Dangerous)

Goal: Recognize free-energy scams so you spend time and money on methods that actually work.

Materials: Critical thinking; A multimeter (to test claims)

Substitutes: Real options: solar, power station, car + inverter, generator outdoors

  1. Know the rule: energy can't be created from nothing (first law of thermodynamics). Every real generator converts some input — sun, wind, fuel, muscle, falling water.
  2. Watch for red flags: 'runs forever', 'no fuel', hidden boxes, cut-away video edits, or selling plans and kits.
  3. Magnets store no usable energy that refills; a magnet 'motor' always stops once friction drains its initial push.
  4. 'Earth batteries' (metal rods in soil) are real but tiny — milliwatts, enough maybe for a clock, not a home.
  5. If someone demonstrates one, ask to see it unplugged and disconnected from hidden batteries, and measure output with a meter over hours.
  6. Spend that money on a solar panel and battery instead — a 100 W panel produces real, measurable energy every sunny day.

Dangers: Wasted money and false security in an emergency. Some DIY 'free energy' wiring is a shock and fire hazard.

It worked if: You can explain why the claim fails and name a real method to use instead.

Food & Cooking

Keeping Food Safe When the Power Goes Out (Field-Tested)

Goal: Avoid food poisoning during and after a power outage.

Materials: Appliance thermometers (fridge and freezer); Coolers; Ice or frozen water bottles; Food thermometer; Marker and tape

Substitutes: Frozen gel packs; Dry ice (handle with gloves, ventilate); Snow in cold weather (in sealed bags)

  1. Before outages, keep the fridge at 40°F (4°C) or below and the freezer at 0°F (−18°C); put thermometers in both.
  2. When the power fails, write the time on tape on the fridge door.
  3. Keep doors closed. A full freezer holds about 48 hours (24 if half full); the fridge only about 4 hours.
  4. If the outage will exceed 4 hours, move milk, meat, fish, eggs, leftovers and medicine to a cooler packed with ice.
  5. Group frozen foods together so they keep each other cold.
  6. Check cooler temperature every few hours; keep it at 40°F (4°C) or below and add ice as needed.
  7. Eat non-perishables and the most perishable fridge foods first.
  8. When power returns, check thermometers. Toss perishable food that was above 40°F for 2+ hours.
  9. Freezer food with ice crystals or at 40°F or below can be refrozen safely.
  10. Never taste food to test it — bacteria that cause illness don't change smell or taste. When in doubt, throw it out.

Dangers: Never use a generator or grill indoors to cook or cool. Dry ice burns skin and releases CO2 — use gloves and ventilation. Insulin and some medicines need cool storage — ask your pharmacist.

It worked if: Thermometers show safe temperatures and you can say exactly what was kept or discarded and why.

Food Preservation

Zeer Pot Evaporative Cooler (Conditional)

Goal: Extend the life of fruits and vegetables without electricity.

Materials: Two unglazed terracotta pots (one fits inside the other with a 3–5 cm gap); Sand; Water; Damp cloth

Substitutes: Stacked buckets wrapped in wet burlap; Charcoal cooler box with wet walls

  1. Plug drainage holes and place a sand layer in the large pot.
  2. Center the small pot and fill the gap with sand.
  3. Soak the sand with water until saturated.
  4. Load produce and cover with a damp cloth.
  5. Keep in shade with airflow; rewet sand twice daily.

Dangers: NOT a safe refrigerator for meat, dairy or leftovers — those need ≤ 4 °C (40 °F). Weak in humid climates like Florida — expect only a few degrees of cooling there.

It worked if: The inner pot feels noticeably cooler than air temperature and produce lasts longer.

Sanitation & Toilets

Two-Bucket Emergency Toilet (Field-Tested)

Goal: Safely manage human waste during outages.

Materials: Two 5-gallon buckets with lids; Heavy trash bags; Toilet seat or pool noodle; Sawdust, cat litter or shredded paper; Gloves

Substitutes: Toilet bowl lined with a bag (water off); Peat moss or dry leaves as cover

  1. Label one bucket URINE and one FECES.
  2. Line the feces bucket with two bags and add a layer of cover material.
  3. After each use, cover feces fully with dry material and close the lid.
  4. Dilute urine and dispose of away from water sources per local guidance.
  5. Wash hands every time. Seal and store full bags as advised by local authorities.

Dangers: Keep waste far from wells, streams and food areas. Follow local disposal rules.

It worked if: Minimal odor, no flies, and a clean handwashing routine.

Bathing & Hygiene

Build a Tippy-Tap Handwashing Station (Field-Tested)

Goal: Wash hands properly without running water to prevent disease.

Materials: 1 gallon (4 L) jug with handle; Two forked sticks and one crossbar; String or rope; Soap and a nail or skewer; Gravel

Substitutes: Water cooler jug with spigot; Bucket with tap; Bottle with holes in cap

  1. Push two forked sticks into the ground about 2 ft (60 cm) apart and lay a crossbar across them.
  2. Heat a nail and poke a small hole in the jug about 2 in (5 cm) below the cap on the side opposite the handle.
  3. Tie a string to the jug handle and hang it from the crossbar.
  4. Tie another string from the jug's neck down to a stick on the ground as a foot pedal.
  5. Hang soap from the crossbar on a string (poke a hole through the bar of soap).
  6. Put gravel under the station to soak up water and prevent mud and mosquitoes.
  7. Fill the jug. Step on the pedal — the jug tips and a thin stream comes out.
  8. Wash: wet hands, soap for 20 seconds (backs, between fingers, under nails), rinse, air dry.
  9. Wash after toilet use, before eating or cooking, and after caring for sick people.

Dangers: Use clean water; don't use floodwater. Hand sanitizer doesn't remove visible dirt or some germs. Keep the station away from latrines draining toward water.

It worked if: Station dispenses water with a foot tap and everyone uses it.

Heating & Cooling

Hot-Water Bottle in a Sock (Field-Tested)

Goal: Add safe, long-lasting heat inside a sleeping bag or bed.

Materials: Leak-proof heat-safe bottle (e.g. hard-sided Nalgene-style or metal); Hot (not boiling) water; Sock or cloth cover

Substitutes: Rubber hot-water bottle; Rice sock warmed in a pot (no microwave needed)

  1. Fill the bottle with hot water and close it tightly. Check for leaks upside down.
  2. Slip it into a thick sock or wrap in cloth — never directly against skin.
  3. Place near your core or femoral arteries (inner thighs).
  4. Reheat water in the morning to drink or reuse.

Dangers: Never use thin soft plastic bottles — they can burst. Burn risk for children, elderly and people with poor sensation.

It worked if: Bottle stays warm for several hours with no leaks or skin redness.

Heated Rocks for Warmth (Conditional)

Goal: Store fire heat under a sleeping area.

Materials: Dry, non-porous rocks from high ground; Fire; Shovel or sticks; Soil

Substitutes: Hot-water bottle in a sock (safer)

  1. Use only dry rocks from high ground — never from rivers, streams or wet areas.
  2. Heat rocks at the edge of a fire, staying back in case one cracks.
  3. Dig a shallow trench under your sleeping area.
  4. Place rocks in the trench and cover with at least 10–15 cm of soil.
  5. Test with your hand before lying down. Never place rocks directly in bedding.

Dangers: Exploding rock fragments. Burns and fire in bedding. Never bring heated rocks into a tent.

It worked if: Ground feels warm through the soil layer without any hot spots.

Navigation

Map and Compass: Taking and Following a Bearing (Field-Tested)

Goal: Use a baseplate compass and topographic map to walk to a destination you can't see.

Materials: Baseplate compass with rotating bezel; Topographic map of the area; Pencil; Watch

Substitutes: Phone compass app (backup only); Sun and shadow-stick method; Handrail features (streams, ridges)

  1. Find your location on the map and your destination. Draw a line between them.
  2. Lay the compass edge along that line with the direction-of-travel arrow pointing toward the destination.
  3. Turn the bezel until its north-south lines are parallel to the map's north-south grid lines, with 'N' pointing to map north.
  4. Adjust for declination (shown in the map margin): add or subtract the degrees as noted, or use a compass with adjustable declination.
  5. Read the bearing at the index line — e.g., 72°.
  6. Hold the compass flat at your waist, arrow pointing forward. Turn your body until the red magnetic needle sits inside the red outline arrow ('red in the shed').
  7. Look up along the direction arrow and pick a landmark (tree, rock) on that line.
  8. Walk to it, then repeat: needle in shed, pick next landmark. Don't watch the compass while walking.
  9. Count paces (about 60–70 double-paces per 100 m on flat ground) to estimate distance.
  10. If an obstacle blocks you, walk around it with right-angle offsets and count paces back to your line.

Dangers: Metal objects and phones near the compass deflect the needle. Steep terrain shown by close contour lines may be impassable. Tell someone your route and return time.

It worked if: You arrive within about 50 m of a target 500 m away using only map and compass.

Wilderness First Aid

Stop the Bleed: Direct Pressure and Tourniquets (Field-Tested)

Goal: Control life-threatening bleeding until emergency help arrives.

Materials: Disposable gloves; Gauze or hemostatic gauze; Commercial tourniquet (CAT or SOF-T); Pressure bandage; Phone

Substitutes: Clean cloth or T-shirt for pressure; Improvised tourniquet: 2 in (5 cm) wide strap + stick windlass (last resort); Plastic bag over hands if no gloves

  1. Make sure the scene is safe for you. Put on gloves.
  2. Call 911 (or have someone call) immediately.
  3. Find the source: expose the wound and look for blood that is spurting, pooling, or soaking clothing.
  4. Press hard directly on the wound with gauze or cloth using both hands and your body weight.
  5. For deep wounds in the arm, leg, neck, armpit or groin, pack gauze tightly into the wound with your fingers until full, then keep pressing for at least 3 minutes.
  6. If an arm or leg keeps bleeding heavily, apply a tourniquet 2–3 in (5–7 cm) above the wound, not on a joint.
  7. Pull the strap tight, twist the windlass until bleeding stops, and lock it. It will hurt — that's normal.
  8. Write the time it was applied on the tourniquet or the person's skin.
  9. Do NOT loosen or remove it — leave that to medical professionals.
  10. Keep the person warm and lying down, and keep pressure until help arrives.

Dangers: Always call emergency services. Narrow cords, wire or belts make poor tourniquets and can injure tissue. Wear gloves — protect yourself from bloodborne disease.

It worked if: Bleeding stops or slows to oozing, and help has been called.

Tools & Repairs

Five Essential Knots (Field-Tested)

Goal: Tie five knots that cover almost every survival job, from memory.

Materials: 2 m of 4–6 mm cord; A pole, tree or chair leg; Paracord for practice

Substitutes: Shoelaces; Strips of T-shirt; Electrical cord

  1. Bowline (fixed loop that won't slip): make a small overhand loop in the standing part — 'the rabbit hole'.
  2. Pass the end up through the loop ('rabbit comes out of the hole'), around behind the standing part ('around the tree') and back down the loop. Pull tight.
  3. Clove hitch (quick attach to a pole): wrap the rope around the pole, cross over itself, wrap again, and tuck the end under the second wrap.
  4. Taut-line hitch (adjustable tent line): pass the line around a stake, then wrap the end twice inside the loop toward the stake.
  5. Make one more wrap outside the first two, away from the stake, and tighten. Slide the knot to adjust tension.
  6. Square knot (join two equal ropes): right over left and under, then left over right and under. Both ends should exit on the same side.
  7. Trucker's hitch (tensioning loads/ridgelines): tie a slip loop in the middle of the line, pass the end around an anchor and back through the loop.
  8. Pull down to tension (2:1 pulley effect), then lock with two half-hitches.
  9. Practice each knot 10 times, then with eyes closed — you may need them in the dark.
  10. Dress (neaten) each knot and leave a tail at least 10 rope-widths long.

Dangers: Square knots can slip under load — never use for climbing or lifting people. Rope rescue requires training and rated gear. Check knots on loaded lines regularly.

It worked if: You can tie all five knots without looking, and they hold weight.

Wild Food & Foraging

The Universal Edibility Test (Myth/Dangerous)

Goal: Understand why this 'test' should not be used.

Materials: None — use a regional field guide instead

Substitutes: Positive identification of 3–5 common local plants learned in advance

  1. Don't use it. Many deadly plants cause no reaction until hours or days later (e.g. water hemlock, death cap).
  2. Before an emergency, learn a few local plants with no toxic look-alikes.
  3. Never eat wild mushrooms in a survival situation.
  4. Remember: adults can survive weeks without food. Water and shelter come first.

Dangers: Delayed liver or kidney failure. Wastes energy and water you need.

It worked if: You chose not to eat an unidentified plant.

Weather & Disasters

Earthquake: Drop, Cover, Hold On — and After (Field-Tested)

Goal: Protect yourself during shaking and deal safely with the aftermath.

Materials: Sturdy table or desk; Shoes and flashlight by every bed; Wrench for gas shutoff; Whistle

Substitutes: Interior wall away from windows if no table; Cover head/neck with arms; Lock wheelchair and cover head

  1. DROP to your hands and knees as soon as shaking starts, before it knocks you down.
  2. COVER your head and neck under a sturdy table; if none, crawl next to an interior wall away from windows and cover your head with your arms.
  3. HOLD ON to the table leg and move with it until shaking stops.
  4. Don't run outside — falling glass and bricks near exits cause many injuries. Don't stand in doorways.
  5. If in bed, stay there and cover your head with a pillow.
  6. When shaking stops, put on shoes, check yourself and others for injuries.
  7. Smell for gas. If you smell it or hear hissing, leave and shut the gas off at the meter only if safe; don't use flames or switches.
  8. Expect aftershocks; drop, cover, hold on again each time.
  9. If near the coast and shaking was strong or long, move to high ground immediately — a tsunami may follow.
  10. Text instead of calling to keep lines open; check on neighbors.

Dangers: Gas leaks and fires. Broken glass — wear sturdy shoes and gloves. Damaged buildings can collapse in aftershocks.

It worked if: Everyone in the household can drop, cover and hold on within 2 seconds in a drill.

Off-Grid Living

Building a Rain Barrel System (Field-Tested)

Goal: Capture roof runoff safely and store it for non-drinking use or later treatment.

Materials: Food-grade 55 gallon (200 L) barrel with lid; Downspout diverter; Spigot and bulkhead fitting; Mesh screen; Cinder blocks; Drill and hole saw

Substitutes: Trash can with lid (non-drinking only); IBC tote (275 gal); Tarp funnel into buckets

  1. Check local rules — some places regulate rainwater collection.
  2. Calculate yield: roof area (sq ft) × rain (in) × 0.62 = gallons. 1,000 sq ft and 1 in of rain = 620 gallons.
  3. Level a base of cinder blocks 12–18 in (30–45 cm) high next to a downspout for gravity pressure.
  4. Drill a hole near the bottom and install the spigot with a bulkhead fitting and sealant.
  5. Cut an inlet in the lid and cover it with fine mesh to keep out mosquitoes and leaves.
  6. Add an overflow outlet near the top, routed away from the foundation.
  7. Install a diverter on the downspout and connect it to the inlet.
  8. Use a first-flush diverter or discard the first few gallons of each rain — roofs collect bird droppings and dust.
  9. Keep the lid sealed; check monthly for mosquito larvae.
  10. Treat before drinking: filter, then boil or disinfect.

Dangers: Untreated roof water can carry E. coli and Salmonella. Asphalt shingles and treated roofs may add chemicals — use for gardens only. Open barrels are a drowning risk for small children.

It worked if: The barrel fills after rain, overflows away from the house and has no mosquito larvae.

Communication & Rescue

Aiming a Signal Mirror (Field-Tested)

Goal: Attract aircraft or distant rescuers.

Materials: Signal mirror with sighting hole

Substitutes: CD/DVD; Phone screen; Polished metal lid

  1. Hold the mirror near your eye, looking through the sighting hole at the target.
  2. Extend your other hand in a V toward the target.
  3. Tilt the mirror until the reflected spot lands on your fingers.
  4. Sweep the flash slowly across the target.
  5. Use three flashes — the international distress pattern.

Dangers: Never flash into a pilot's eyes continuously once seen. Only works in sunlight.

It worked if: The aircraft or rescuer changes course or waggles wings.

Clothing & Protection

The Three-Layer System (Field-Tested)

Goal: Dress to prevent hypothermia and overheating in changing weather.

Materials: Synthetic or wool base layer; Fleece or down insulation; Waterproof breathable shell; Hat, gloves, wool socks

Substitutes: Polyester gym clothes as base; Trash bag poncho as shell; Newspaper/leaves stuffed inside jacket for insulation

  1. Base layer: put on a snug synthetic or wool layer that pulls sweat off your skin. Avoid cotton — it holds water and loses insulation.
  2. Insulation layer: add fleece, wool or down to trap warm air. Use more thin layers rather than one thick one.
  3. Shell: add a wind- and waterproof jacket and pants.
  4. Cover your head, neck and hands — they lose heat quickly.
  5. Before exertion (hiking, shoveling) remove a layer so you don't sweat. 'Be bold, start cold.'
  6. When you stop, add insulation immediately, before you get chilled.
  7. Vent zippers to dump heat without stripping layers.
  8. Change into dry socks and base layers at camp; dry wet items close to your body in your sleeping bag.
  9. Watch others for the 'umbles' — stumbles, mumbles, fumbles — early hypothermia signs.

Dangers: Wet cotton in cool, windy weather can cause hypothermia even above freezing. Overheating and sweating leads to chilling later. Tight boots restrict circulation — frostbite risk.

It worked if: You stay dry and comfortable through activity and rest without shivering or sweating heavily.

Survival With Children

Teaching Kids the Family Emergency Plan (Field-Tested)

Goal: Every child can recite contacts and meeting places and has practiced them.

Materials: Wallet card with contacts; Map of neighborhood; Small backpack 'go bag' per child; Whistle

Substitutes: Contacts written inside backpack or on shoe tag; Laminated index card; Song or rhyme to memorize phone numbers

  1. Choose two meeting places: one right outside the home (a mailbox or tree) and one outside the neighborhood (library, relative's house).
  2. Choose an out-of-area contact — long-distance calls/texts often get through when local lines are jammed.
  3. Make a wallet card for each child with names, numbers, address, allergies and meeting places.
  4. Teach children to dial 911 and practice what to say: name, address, what happened.
  5. Walk to both meeting places together and point out landmarks.
  6. Run a fire drill: push smoke alarm test button, get low, touch doors for heat, exit, go to meeting spot.
  7. Pack small go-bags together: water, snack, flashlight, comfort item, extra clothes, card copy.
  8. Explain the plan calmly and give children jobs (carrying the flashlight, holding the pet leash) — jobs reduce fear.
  9. Practice twice a year and when kids change schools.
  10. Find out each school's emergency and pickup plan.

Dangers: Don't frighten young children with graphic details. Update cards when numbers change. Make sure kids know never to hide during a fire.

It worked if: Each child can say the contacts and meeting spots and completes a drill in under 2 minutes.

Urban Survival

Apartment Blackout: The First 24 Hours (Field-Tested)

Goal: Stay safe, fed and informed in an apartment without power.

Materials: Headlamp; Stored water (pumps may fail); Battery radio; Power bank; Cooler; Whistle

Substitutes: Fill pots and tub at first flicker; Car charger in parking lot (outdoors); Library or community cooling/warming center

  1. As soon as power fails, fill the bathtub and pots — high-rise water pumps often stop.
  2. Unplug sensitive electronics to protect them from surges when power returns; leave one light switched on to know.
  3. Check on neighbors, especially older or disabled residents.
  4. Use stairs, never elevators. Keep a headlamp in your pocket.
  5. Keep fridge and freezer closed; follow the food safety lesson.
  6. Listen to radio or check phone briefly for updates, then save battery with low-power mode.
  7. In heat, stay on lower floors, close blinds by day, open windows at night, and use cooling centers.
  8. In cold, close off unused rooms, layer up, and never use ovens, grills or camp stoves for heat.
  9. Don't use candles in hallways or near curtains.
  10. If you depend on powered medical equipment, go early to a location with power.

Dangers: CO from indoor grills or generators. Stair falls in the dark. Heat illness on upper floors.

It worked if: Water stored, neighbors checked, phones charged and food kept cold through the first day.

Survival Psychology

S.T.O.P.: The First Thing to Do (Field-Tested)

Goal: Control panic and make a plan before acting.

Materials: None

Substitutes: Write it on a card in your kit

  1. STOP: sit down. Don't keep moving. Take slow breaths — in 4, hold 4, out 4.
  2. THINK: what's the most urgent threat? Use the Rule of 3s: ~3 minutes without air, ~3 hours without shelter in harsh weather, ~3 days without water, ~3 weeks without food.
  3. OBSERVE: inventory what you have, the weather, daylight left, and hazards.
  4. PLAN: choose the next single action. Stay put if someone knows where you are.

Dangers: Rule of 3s are rough guides — extreme heat or cold shortens them.

It worked if: You can say your top priority and next action out loud.

Carbon Monoxide & Fire Safety

Running a Generator Safely (Field-Tested)

Goal: Power essentials without carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning or electrocution.

Materials: Portable generator; Heavy-duty outdoor extension cords; Battery-powered CO alarms; Fuel in approved cans

Substitutes: Portable power station (battery) — safe indoors; Car with inverter, car parked outdoors only

  1. Place the generator OUTSIDE, at least 20 ft (6 m) from the house, exhaust pointed away from doors and windows.
  2. Never run it in a garage, carport, basement or shed — even with the door open.
  3. Install battery CO alarms on every level and outside sleeping areas.
  4. Run outdoor-rated extension cords to appliances. Never plug into a wall outlet (backfeeding can kill line workers).
  5. Turn it off and let it cool before refueling. Store fuel away from the house.

Dangers: Headache, dizziness, nausea, confusion = get to fresh air and call 911. Sleeping people can die without waking. Wet conditions: electrocution risk — keep generator dry and covered.

It worked if: CO alarms stay silent, generator is 20+ ft away outdoors, nobody has symptoms.

Medical Needs Without Power

Keeping Insulin and Medicines Cool Without Power (Conditional)

Goal: Protect temperature-sensitive medicines through an outage.

Materials: Insulated cooler; Gel packs or ice; Thermometer; Evaporative cooling wallet (e.g. FRIO style); Medication list

Substitutes: Clay-pot evaporative cooler (zeer); Wet cloth wrap in shade; Cooler of cool (not frozen) water

  1. Read your medicine's label or ask your pharmacist how long it is stable unrefrigerated. Many insulins last about 28 days at room temperature up to about 86°F (30°C).
  2. Keep a written list of medicines, doses and prescriber contacts.
  3. During an outage, keep unopened insulin in the closed fridge for the first few hours.
  4. For longer outages, move it to a cooler with ice packs — but wrap the insulin so it never touches ice and never freezes.
  5. Keep a thermometer in the cooler and aim for 36–46°F (2–8°C).
  6. If no ice, use an evaporative cooling wallet: soak it in water as directed, place insulin inside, keep in shade.
  7. Keep medicines out of direct sun, hot cars and windowsills.
  8. Don't use insulin that has frozen, is cloudy when it should be clear, or has clumps.
  9. Contact your pharmacist or doctor for replacement and guidance — many states allow emergency refills.

Dangers: Always follow your prescriber or pharmacist's advice. Seek emergency care for signs of very high or low blood sugar. Frozen insulin must be discarded.

It worked if: Medicines stayed within their labeled temperature range for the whole outage.

Pets & Livestock

Pet Evacuation Kit and Plan (Field-Tested)

Goal: Evacuate safely with every pet and keep them healthy away from home.

Materials: Carrier or crate per pet; Leash, harness, collar with ID tag; 7 days of food and water; Medicines and vet records; Recent photo of you with pet; Litter and pan / waste bags

Substitutes: Pillowcase for carrying a cat briefly; Collapsible bowls; Phone photos of records

  1. Microchip pets and register your current phone number.
  2. Put an ID tag on every collar with your cell number.
  3. Pack food, water (about 1 oz per pound of body weight daily for dogs and cats), bowls and medicines in a waterproof bin.
  4. Add vaccination records, a photo of you with your pet (to prove ownership), and a familiar blanket or toy.
  5. Find pet-friendly hotels, friends and shelters outside your area and save their numbers.
  6. Practice getting pets into carriers so it's not a fight during an emergency.
  7. Leave early — many shelters and roads won't take pets once an evacuation is mandatory.
  8. Keep pets leashed or crated in new places; frightened animals bolt.
  9. After returning home, check the yard for debris, wildlife and downed lines before letting pets out.

Dangers: Never leave pets tied up during floods or storms. Hot cars kill pets in minutes. Watch for floodwater contamination and sharp debris.

It worked if: Kit packed, carriers practiced, and three pet-friendly destinations saved.

Personal Security & Safety

Securing Your Home After a Disaster (Defensive) (Field-Tested)

Goal: Make your home a harder target and avoid confrontations.

Materials: Door reinforcement plate / longer strike plate screws (3 in); Solar motion lights; Window locks or dowels in sliding tracks; Phone and radio

Substitutes: Broomstick in sliding door track; Door wedge alarm; Neighbor watch group chat

  1. Replace short strike-plate screws with 3 in (7.5 cm) screws that reach the door frame stud.
  2. Put a dowel or broomstick in sliding door and window tracks.
  3. Install solar motion lights at entrances — they work without grid power.
  4. Keep valuables, generators and fuel out of sight; chain generators down.
  5. Board broken windows and doors promptly.
  6. Organize with neighbors: share contact info and check in daily.
  7. Don't advertise supplies on social media.
  8. If someone suspicious approaches, stay inside, lock doors, and call 911. Don't confront.
  9. Know two exits from your home and keep keys and shoes near them.

Dangers: Avoid confrontation — property can be replaced, people can't. Never block emergency exits. Don't run generators indoors to hide them.

It worked if: All entries secured, lights working, and a neighbor check-in system is set up.

Money, Documents & Plans

Grab-and-Go Document Kit (Field-Tested)

Goal: Keep critical documents and cash safe and portable.

Materials: Waterproof, fire-resistant document pouch; Copies of IDs, passports, birth certificates; Insurance policies, deeds, leases; Medical and prescription lists; Cash in small bills; USB drive (encrypted)

Substitutes: Zip-top bags inside a backpack; Encrypted cloud storage; Safe deposit box for originals

  1. Gather IDs, Social Security cards, passports, birth/marriage certificates, insurance, deeds, titles, wills, medical records, pet records.
  2. Make copies; keep originals in a fire-resistant safe or safe deposit box.
  3. Scan everything to an encrypted USB drive and a secure cloud account.
  4. Write a contact sheet with family, doctors, insurers and account numbers.
  5. Record a video walkthrough of your home and belongings for insurance.
  6. Add $200–500 in small bills — ATMs and card readers fail in outages.
  7. Seal it in a waterproof pouch and store it near your exit.
  8. Review and update it once a year.

Dangers: Protect against identity theft — encrypt digital copies. Don't keep the only originals in the go-bag.

It worked if: You can grab one pouch in 30 seconds containing everything to start recovery.

Heat Illness & Hot Climates

Heat Exhaustion vs. Heat Stroke — and Rapid Cooling (Field-Tested)

Goal: Tell the difference between heat exhaustion and heat stroke and respond correctly.

Materials: Water; Cool wet towels; Ice packs; Fan; Shade

Substitutes: Tarp for shade; Spray bottle; Tub or kiddie pool of cool water

  1. Heat exhaustion signs: heavy sweating, cool clammy skin, weakness, dizziness, nausea, headache, fast weak pulse.
  2. Heat stroke signs: confusion, slurred speech, fainting, seizures, very high body temperature (103°F/39.4°C+), hot skin that may be dry or sweaty.
  3. For heat stroke, call 911 immediately.
  4. Move the person to shade or a cool place.
  5. Cool them fast: immerse in cool water up to the neck if possible, or soak with water and fan constantly.
  6. Place ice packs or cold wet towels on the neck, armpits and groin.
  7. Do not give fluids to a confused or unconscious person.
  8. For heat exhaustion: rest in shade, loosen clothes, sip water or electrolyte drink, cool with wet cloths.
  9. If heat exhaustion symptoms worsen or last more than 1 hour, get medical help.

Dangers: Heat stroke is life-threatening — call 911. Older adults, infants and people on certain medications are at higher risk. Never leave anyone in a parked car.

It worked if: You can name the warning signs and the cooling steps from memory.

Insects, Pests & Disease

Mosquito Control After Floods and Storms (Field-Tested)

Goal: Reduce mosquito bites and mosquito-borne disease after storms.

Materials: EPA-registered repellent (DEET, picaridin, or oil of lemon eucalyptus); Long sleeves and pants; Window screens / net; Bucket

Substitutes: Bed net over sleeping area; Fan (mosquitoes are weak fliers); Mosquito dunks (Bti) for water that can't be drained

  1. Walk your property once a week and dump any standing water: buckets, tires, toys, tarps, flowerpot saucers, gutters.
  2. Scrub containers — eggs stick to the sides.
  3. Cover rain barrels with fine mesh.
  4. Use Bti mosquito dunks in water you can't drain; it's safe for people and pets.
  5. Repair or improvise screens with netting and tape.
  6. Apply repellent to exposed skin, following the label; put sunscreen on first, repellent second.
  7. Wear long sleeves and pants, especially at dawn and dusk.
  8. Sleep under a net if windows must stay open.
  9. Seek medical care for fever, rash or joint pain after bites.

Dangers: Follow repellent labels for children. Avoid standing floodwater when draining (contamination). Don't use oil of lemon eucalyptus on kids under 3.

It worked if: No standing water around the home and no larvae seen in containers.

Water Storage & Rotation

Storing and Rotating Emergency Water (Field-Tested)

Goal: Store at least a 2-week supply of safe drinking water.

Materials: Food-grade containers (store-bought bottled water or water jugs); Unscented bleach; Labels and marker; Cool, dark storage space

Substitutes: Clean 2-liter soda bottles; Water bricks; WaterBOB-style bathtub liner

  1. Calculate: 1 gallon (about 4 L) per person per day × 14 days. Family of 4 = 56 gallons. Add for pets and hot climates.
  2. Easiest: buy commercially bottled water and keep it in its sealed packaging.
  3. For DIY, use food-grade containers or soda bottles (never milk jugs — they degrade and are hard to clean).
  4. Wash containers with soap, rinse, then sanitize with 1 teaspoon of bleach per quart of water, shake and rinse.
  5. Fill with tap water. If your water isn't chlorinated (well water), add 2 drops of unscented bleach per liter (8 drops per gallon).
  6. Seal tightly, label with the date, and store in a cool, dark place away from chemicals and fuels.
  7. Replace DIY water every 6 months; store-bought by the expiration date.
  8. Keep some water in small bottles for go-bags.

Dangers: Never use containers that held chemicals. Don't store on concrete in hot garages near fuel. Ration sweat, not water — drink normally.

It worked if: You have a labeled, dated 14-day supply and a rotation reminder set.

Growing Food

Starting a Container Garden (Field-Tested)

Goal: Produce fresh food in a small space.

Materials: 5 gallon buckets or large pots; Drill for drainage holes; Potting mix (not garden soil); Seeds or seedlings; Slow-release fertilizer; Watering can

Substitutes: Grow bags; Storage totes; Old tires (food safety concerns — line them)

  1. Pick a spot with 6+ hours of direct sun daily for fruiting crops (tomatoes, peppers); 4 hours is fine for leafy greens and herbs.
  2. Drill 5–6 drainage holes (1/2 in) in each bucket bottom.
  3. Fill with potting mix to 1 in (2.5 cm) below the rim; mix in fertilizer per the label.
  4. Plant: 1 tomato or pepper per bucket; 4–6 lettuce plants; 6–8 bush beans.
  5. Sow seeds at a depth of about 2–3 times their width; water gently.
  6. Water when the top inch of soil is dry — daily in hot weather.
  7. Add a stake or cage for tomatoes when planting.
  8. Fertilize every 2–4 weeks once plants grow.
  9. Harvest leafy greens by picking outer leaves so plants keep producing.
  10. Watch for pests; pick them off or spray with soapy water.

Dangers: Don't use buckets that held chemicals. Heavy containers on balconies — check weight limits. Wash produce before eating.

It worked if: Harvesting your first greens within 4–6 weeks.

Personal Hygiene Extended

Dental and Foot Care in the Field (Field-Tested)

Goal: Keep teeth and feet healthy without regular facilities.

Materials: Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss; Clean socks (2+ pairs); Moleskin or blister tape; Foot powder; Nail clippers

Substitutes: Chewed twig end as brush (e.g. green hardwood); Baking soda for toothpaste; Duct tape over hot spots

  1. Brush teeth twice a day for 2 minutes and floss once — use bottled or treated water.
  2. If out of toothpaste, brush with a little baking soda or just water.
  3. Inspect your feet every evening for red 'hot spots', blisters and cuts.
  4. Treat hot spots immediately: cover with moleskin or tape before a blister forms.
  5. For blisters, don't pop unless large and painful; if you must, clean, use a sterilized needle at the edge, leave the roof on, cover.
  6. Change into dry socks daily; dry wet socks on your body or by a fire.
  7. Air out feet when resting and dust with powder.
  8. Trim toenails straight across.
  9. Watch for signs of infection: spreading redness, warmth, pus, fever — seek medical care.

Dangers: Dental abscesses can spread infection — seek care. Trench foot from wet feet days at a time. People with diabetes should check feet carefully every day.

It worked if: No blisters after a full day of walking and no dental pain.

Vehicle Survival

Stranded in a Vehicle in Winter (Field-Tested)

Goal: Survive being stuck in a car during a snowstorm.

Materials: Winter car kit: blankets, hat, gloves, water, snacks; Shovel; Flashlight; Bright cloth for antenna; Phone charger

Substitutes: Floor mats as insulation; Car seat covers as blankets; Newspapers stuffed in clothes

  1. Stay with the vehicle — it's shelter and easier to find. Don't walk off in a storm.
  2. Call 911 if you can and give your location; then save phone battery.
  3. Tie a bright cloth to the antenna or door.
  4. Clear snow from the tailpipe before running the engine, and check it every hour.
  5. Run the engine and heater for only about 10 minutes each hour, with a window cracked slightly.
  6. Turn on dome light at night when the engine runs so rescuers can see you.
  7. Wrap up in blankets, huddle together, and exercise arms and legs to stay warm.
  8. Drink water; don't eat snow (lowers body temperature) unless melted.
  9. Take turns sleeping so someone stays alert.

Dangers: Carbon monoxide — clear tailpipe, crack window. Frostbite and hypothermia. Never drive through flooded roads in other seasons.

It worked if: You can list the steps and your car carries a winter kit.

Accessibility & Elderly

Building a Personal Support Network (Field-Tested)

Goal: Have at least three people who can help in an emergency and know your specific needs.

Materials: List of needs (mobility, medicines, equipment, communication); Contact list; Spare keys; Copies of medical info

Substitutes: Neighbors, faith groups, community volunteers; Utility medical priority registry; Local emergency special-needs registry

  1. List what you'd need help with: evacuating, powering equipment, refrigerating medicine, communicating, caring for a service animal.
  2. Ask at least three people (not all in your building) to be your support network.
  3. Share your needs list, medicine list, and how to operate your equipment.
  4. Give a trusted person a spare key.
  5. Agree on check-in: they contact you within a set time after an emergency.
  6. Register with your utility's medical certificate program and your local special-needs registry if available.
  7. Keep spare batteries or manual alternatives (manual wheelchair, extra hearing aid batteries, glasses).
  8. Practice evacuation together, including stairs if elevators fail.
  9. Update the list when medicines or equipment change.

Dangers: Don't rely on one person. Keep medicines and equipment labeled with your name. Know which shelters can support your needs.

It worked if: Three people know your needs and have practiced helping you.

Hurricane & Blackout Track

Hurricane Prep: The 72 Hours Before Landfall (Field-Tested)

Goal: Have your home, family and supplies ready before a hurricane arrives, and know whether to stay or go.

Materials: Water: 1 gallon (4 L) per person per day for 7+ days; Non-perishable food for 7 days; Flashlights, headlamps, batteries; Battery/crank NOAA radio; Charged power banks/power station; Plywood or storm shutters; Waterproof bag for documents; Prescription medicines (2-week supply)

Substitutes: Fill bathtub for flushing/cleaning water; Freeze water bottles as ice packs; Zip-top bags for documents; Phone photos of documents uploaded to cloud

  1. 72 hours out (hurricane WATCH): look up your evacuation zone on your county website and decide where you'd go — a friend inland is better than a shelter.
  2. Refill prescriptions, get cash in small bills, and fill vehicle gas tanks — stations close and pumps need power.
  3. Buy or check water and food for 7 days; include pet food and baby supplies.
  4. 48 hours out: bring in or tie down outdoor furniture, grills, trash cans and anything that can become a flying object.
  5. Install shutters or pre-cut plywood over windows (screwed into framing, not taped — tape does nothing).
  6. Charge every phone, power bank, laptop and power station to 100%.
  7. Turn fridge and freezer to their coldest settings; fill empty space with water bottles to hold cold longer.
  8. Put documents (IDs, insurance, deeds, medical lists) in a waterproof bag; photograph every room for insurance.
  9. 36 hours out (WARNING): if officials order your zone to evacuate, leave. Storm surge, not wind, causes most deaths.
  10. If staying: fill bathtubs and buckets for flushing, pick an interior windowless room on the lowest floor that won't flood as your safe room.
  11. During the storm stay inside, away from windows, even during the calm eye — the other side of the eyewall is coming.
  12. After: wait for the all-clear, avoid floodwater (sewage, live wires), and run generators only outdoors, 20 ft from the house.

Dangers: Never ignore evacuation orders in surge zones. Carbon monoxide from generators kills people after every major storm. Floodwater hides live wires, debris and sewage; 6 in (15 cm) of moving water can knock you down. Wear gloves, boots and eye protection during cleanup.

It worked if: Windows covered, 7 days of supplies ready, devices charged, documents sealed, and a written stay-or-go decision based on your zone.

Myths

  • Drink your urine to survive. — Urine contains salts and waste that get more concentrated as you dehydrate. It worsens dehydration.
  • Suck out snake venom. — Suction and cutting don't remove venom and cause harm. Keep the person calm, immobilize the limb, and evacuate.
  • Homemade charcoal makes water drinkable. — Improvised charcoal can improve taste and clarity but doesn't reliably remove pathogens. Disinfect afterwards.
  • Moss only grows on the north side of trees. — Moss grows wherever it's damp and shaded. Use the sun, stars or a compass.
  • Rub frostbite with snow. — Rubbing damages tissue. Rewarm gently in warm (not hot) water only if refreezing won't happen.
  • Heat rocks in a fire and sleep on them. — River or wet rocks can crack or explode. Prefer insulation and proper sleeping systems.
  • Two magnets generate free electricity. — Electricity needs a changing magnetic field through a coil — that requires motion and energy input.
  • Running a generator in the garage is fine if the door is open. — Carbon monoxide still builds up to deadly levels. Generators belong outdoors, 20+ ft from the house.
  • The universal edibility test tells you what's safe to eat. — Many deadly plants cause delayed symptoms. Learn positive ID of a few local plants instead. Never wild mushrooms.
  • If animals eat it, it's safe for you. — Many animals tolerate plants that are toxic to humans. Use positive identification only.